A shop drawing is the factory instruction, not a design sketch. Check twelve things before signing: reference points, dimensions, appliance openings, fillers, services, door swing, hardware, finish, packing, revision, date and sign-off. If the reference point is missing, none of the numbers can be trusted.
Reference points first; without them, dimensions are meaningless.
Appliance openings and fillers must be shown and dimensioned.
Services should be marked on the drawing, not assumed.
One signed revision only; later changes are variations.
Two approval rounds is normal; more means the brief was unclear.
1. What a shop drawing is
A shop drawing tells the factory what to build. It shows each cabinet, its dimensions, its material, its hardware, its door swing and the reference points the dimensions are measured from. It is not a mood board and not a 3D render. If it cannot be built from the drawing alone, it is not finished.
2. The 12-point check
| # | Check | What good looks like |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Reference points | Each dimension measured from a named face |
| 2 | Overall dimensions | Run length, height, depth |
| 3 | Appliance openings | Model and clear opening shown |
| 4 | Fillers | Shown and dimensioned at walls |
| 5 | Services | Sockets, water, waste marked |
| 6 | Door swing | Handing shown for every door |
| 7 | Hardware | Model numbers on the schedule |
| 8 | Finish | Colour and sheen named |
| 9 | Packing | Carton and label standard |
| 10 | Revision | Number and date on every sheet |
| 11 | Scale | 1:20 or 1:10 stated |
| 12 | Sign-off | Named approver and date |
Any missing item is a question, not an assumption. The measuring guide shows where the reference points come from.
3. Reference points
Every dimension should start from a named face: the finished wall, the cabinet carcass, the door face or the counter edge. A drawing that says 600 without saying from where is not a drawing; it is a guess. Mark the reference on the first sheet and use it on every sheet.
4. Appliance openings
An appliance opening is not the same as a cabinet width. An oven needs a clear opening, a fridge needs ventilation, a dishwasher needs a service gap. Show the model and the clear opening, not just the nominal width. The hardware specification covers the hinges and runners that go with each opening.
5. Fillers and scribes
Walls are rarely square, so fillers close the gap between the cabinet run and the wall. They should be shown and dimensioned, not left to the installer. A 150 mm filler is normal; a 300 mm filler usually means the layout needs revisiting.
6. Services
Sockets, water, waste, gas and extract should be marked on the drawing with height and offset. A cabinet cannot cover a service that is in the wrong place, and moving a service after the cabinets are made is expensive. Mark them on the same drawing as the cabinets, so the clash is visible.
7. Sign-off and revision control
Sign one revision only. Every sheet should carry the revision number and date, and the signed set should be the one the factory builds from. Changes after sign-off are variations; they cost money and time, and they are the main reason projects slip.
8. A review workflow
Review in two rounds: the first for design intent, the second for detail. Allow five working days for each, and send comments as a marked-up PDF, not a phone call. The carcass materials guide covers the board and finish clauses that should appear on the drawing.
9. A checklist before you commit
Before you sign, confirm six things: the board grade, the hardware model, the finish system, the packing standard, the inspection scope and the payment schedule. Each should be in writing, not in a call. The quote checklist turns the six into a one-page comparison.
10. Common mistakes
The most common mistake is comparing a factory price with a landed cost. The second is leaving the inspection out of the budget. The third is paying the balance before the inspection is signed off. Each is avoidable with a written scope and a pre-shipment inspection.
11. How to measure the room
Measure each wall at three points, top, middle and bottom, and use the smallest. Walls are rarely square, and a 10 mm bow over three metres changes the filler. Measure the ceiling at each corner and note sockets, radiators and soil pipes before drawing. A measured survey saves more time than a faster drawing, and the measuring guide has a printable sheet.
Frequently asked questions
What is a shop drawing?
A shop drawing is the factory instruction for each cabinet: dimensions, materials, hardware, door swing and reference points. It is not a design sketch; it is what the factory builds from.
What scale should it be?
1:20 for room layouts, 1:10 for details. A drawing without a scale is a sketch and should not be signed.
How many approval rounds are normal?
Two. The first corrects the design, the second confirms the detail. More than two usually means the brief was unclear.
What should I check first?
The reference points. If the drawing does not say where the dimensions are measured from, none of the other numbers can be trusted.
Who signs the drawing?
The person who carries the cost of a mistake. Usually the project manager or the buyer, not the installer.
What happens if production starts before sign-off?
The factory builds to the last signed revision, which may be wrong. Any change after that is a variation, not a correction.
