4
Surface types
1
Cloth and mild soap
0
Abrasive cleaners
2
Times a year to check
1
Spare door per type
Short answer

Clean cabinets with a soft cloth and mild soapy water, then dry them. Avoid abrasive cleaners, scouring pads, solvents and steam, because they damage the finish and drive moisture into the edges. Stone benchtops need a pH-neutral cleaner. Check hinges, runners, sealant and edges twice a year.

Key takeaways
  • Soft cloth, mild soap, dry after.

  • No abrasives, solvents or steam.

  • Stone needs a pH-neutral cleaner.

  • Check hinges, runners and sealant twice a year.

  • Most damage is caused by cleaning, not cooking.

1. General rules

Wipe spills promptly, dry after cleaning, and use a trivet near heat. Most cabinet damage is caused by the cleaner, not the cooking: abrasives scratch, solvents dull, and excess water swells the edges.

2. Cleaner by surface

SurfaceUseAvoid
LacquerMild soap, soft clothSolvents, abrasives
MelamineDamp clothScouring pads
VeneerDry or barely damp clothExcess water
StonepH-neutral cleanerAcids, bleach
HardwareDry clothOil unless specified

The table covers the common surfaces. If a cleaner is not labelled for the surface, test it on a hidden area first.

3. Lacquer

Lacquer is durable but softer than melamine. Use mild soap and a soft cloth, and dry after. Avoid solvents and abrasives, which dull the sheen. Small marks can be polished out; deep scratches need a touch-up or a door replacement.

4. Melamine and veneer

Melamine wipes clean with a damp cloth; avoid scouring pads, which leave a scratch pattern. Veneer needs less water, not more, because moisture can lift the grain. Dry immediately after wiping.

5. Stone

Use a pH-neutral cleaner and reseal if the stone requires it. Avoid acidic cleaners, which etch the surface. Wipe wine, citrus and oil promptly, because they stain if left.

6. Hardware

Wipe hardware with a dry cloth. Oil only if the maker specifies it, because the wrong oil attracts dust and gums the mechanism. Check hinges and runners twice a year and adjust rather than force.

7. Stains and chips

Treat stains immediately with the mildest cleaner, then escalate. Small chips can be filled with a colour-matched filler or a lacquer touch-up pen. Deep damage needs a door replacement, which is why a spare door per type is worth storing.

8. Prevention

Use trivets, wipe spills, keep the extractor running and check sealant twice a year. The wet area guide covers the sealing that matters most, and the finishes guide explains which surface needs which care.

9. A checklist before you commit

Before you sign, confirm six things: the board grade, the hardware model, the finish system, the packing standard, the inspection scope and the payment schedule. Each should be in writing, not in a call. The quote checklist turns the six into a one-page comparison.

10. Common mistakes

The most common mistake is comparing a factory price with a landed cost. The second is leaving the inspection out of the budget. The third is paying the balance before the inspection is signed off. Each is avoidable with a written scope and a pre-shipment inspection.

11. How to measure the room

Measure each wall at three points, top, middle and bottom, and use the smallest. Walls are rarely square, and a 10 mm bow over three metres changes the filler. Measure the ceiling at each corner and note sockets, radiators and soil pipes before drawing. A measured survey saves more time than a faster drawing, and the measuring guide has a printable sheet.

13. A specification checklist

Write four lines for every material: the product, the grade, the thickness and the surface or edge treatment. A material specified by name alone leaves the grade to the factory, and the grade is where the cost and the performance sit.

14. Questions the factory will ask

Expect four questions: which grade, which thickness, which edge and which batch. The answers should already be in the specification. If they are not, the factory will choose, and the choice will be the cheapest that meets the drawing.

Need a care schedule for a handover pack?
Send us the finish schedule and we will return a one-page care sheet per surface.

Frequently asked questions

What should I clean cabinets with?

A soft cloth and mild soapy water, then a dry cloth. Avoid abrasive cleaners, scouring pads and solvents, which damage the finish.

Can I use a steam cleaner?

No. Steam drives moisture into edges and joints, which is where the board swells. Wipe with a damp cloth instead.

How do I remove grease?

Mild soapy water first. For stubborn grease, a degreaser labelled safe for the finish, tested on a hidden area.

What about stone benchtops?

Use a pH-neutral cleaner and reseal if the stone requires it. Avoid acidic cleaners, which etch the surface.

How do I handle a chip?

Small chips can be repaired with a colour-matched filler or a lacquer touch-up pen. Deep damage needs a door replacement.

How often should I check the cabinets?

Twice a year: hinges, runners, sealant and edges. A five-minute check catches most problems before they become repairs.

BFP
BFP Project Team
Cabinetry manufacturing & export · since 2016

This guide is based on live project files: specification reviews, pre-shipment inspection reports and clearance documents from apartment, townhouse and villa work. Where a figure varies by project we give the range rather than a single number. Standards and duty treatment should be confirmed against the current version and your own customs broker.

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Key facts at a glance
LacquerMild soap, soft cloth, no solvents
MelamineDamp cloth, avoid abrasives
VeneerDry cloth, avoid excess water
StonepH-neutral, reseal if required
HardwareDry cloth, no oil unless specified
PreventionWipe spills, use trivets
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