Vernis UV is a coating cured by ultraviolet light rather than by evaporation or chemical reaction. Photoinitiators in the coating react to UV in seconds, so a panel can be coated, cured and stacked in one pass. It is applied by roller or curtain coater, which restricts it to flat surfaces.
Why the speed matters
A conventional PU line needs a dust-free drying room and 12–24 hours between coats. A UV line cures in seconds and the panel can be handled immediately, which is why UV dominates volume flat-panel production: door blanks, carcass panels, drawer fronts and shelf boards.
The film is also harder. UV-cured acrylate reaches a higher surface hardness than a 2K PU film, so it resists scratching better — a real advantage on shelf boards and drawer fronts that get slid against.
| Propriétés | Vernis UV | laque PU |
|---|---|---|
| Cure | Seconds, by UV lamp | 12–24 h per coat, air |
| Application | Roller or curtain coater, flat only | Spray, any shape |
| Dureté de la surface | Meilleure performance du béton | Modérée |
| Réparabilité | Difficult, factory only | Toucher possible |
| Edges and profiles | Couverture faible | Couverture complète |
| Meilleur pour | Flat panels, shelves, volume | Doors with profiles, curves |
The flat-only constraint
Roller coating applies an even film to a plane. A profiled or moulded door cannot be coated this way — the roller never reaches the recess. Some factories use vacuum spraying plus UV curing for shaped parts, but coverage at internal corners is unreliable and the process is slower than the flat line.
Edges are the weak point. A UV film on a cut edge is thin and brittle; that is why UV-coated panels are almost always edge banded rather than finished on the edge.
Yellowing and where it shows
Aromatic UV resins yellow under light. Indoors, behind a top coat and away from direct sun, the shift is slow enough to be irrelevant. On a white door in a sunlit room, or on any exterior application, it becomes visible within a few years.
Aliphatic resins resist yellowing and cost more. If the specification is a white or pale finish in a bright room, ask which resin class is used — the difference is not visible on a sample, only after two summers.
Foire aux questions
Is UV lacquer better than PU?
Harder and faster to produce, but restricted to flat panels and harder to repair. For flat doors and shelves it is excellent; for profiled doors, PU is the practical choice.
Can UV lacquer be repaired on site?
Rarely. It needs UV curing equipment to set properly. A touch-in with PU will differ in hardness and sheen, and will show.
Does UV lacquer yellow?
Aromatic grades do, slowly, under light. Aliphatic grades resist it at higher cost. On white doors in bright rooms, specify aliphatic.
Why are UV-coated panels always edge banded?
Because the film on a cut edge is thin and brittle, and the coater cannot wrap the edge. The band protects the core and takes the impact.
